My boys and I are modding an Atari 600XL case and keyboard to be used as the host of a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B and RetroPie. Keyboard will be converted via a Teensy 2.0 and USB run external, to be either fed back into the Pi via a short jumper or to be used as a USB keyboard for Dad's office. Using a ControlBlock to give the Pi a soft power switch & to attach real arcade-style controllers. Installing an internal audio amplifier too.
Wednesday, December 30, 2015
Awaiting the Control Block ...
Finished the soldering and mounted the controller ports. Turns out there were 80 (!) wires in the cable - 40 data and 40 ground in twisted pairs. I removed the ground wires and after connecting 30 wires, 10 remain for repairs.
Tuesday, December 29, 2015
Custom Arcade Controllers
While we have used the USB SNES like controllers the past week, I've been ruminating on better and more accurate controllers for a more enjoyable gameplay.
I ordered a RetroPie Control Block, which is on back order. Apparently, they had some mix up with the batch that was recently delivered. That board attaches to the GPIO header and will control the power to the Pi as well as break-out two arcade controllers.
I needed to find a high-density and robust connector to interface the external arcade controllers to the Control Block. The CB provides 2 channels of 16 switches - requiring 17 pins (16 switches and a ground). The best compromise I found was to use a 15 pin D-SUB connector, familiar to most of us as the standard VGA connector. That provides 14 switches for each controller (14 switch and 1 ground pin). Theoretically, I could use the shield of the connector as a 15th connector, but that's not good practice.
The nice thing here is that the connectors will fit perfectly in the holes for the 2 Atari joystick ports. Those are 9 pin D-SUB connectors, the same physical size as the 15 pin ones. It will also allow some continuity with the original Atari 600XL usage - that the controllers are properly labeled (unlike the situation on the backside).
I found a nice bundle of connector wires in the form of an old PATA cable. I believe there are 40 discrete wires in this bundle. Now on to solder 30 connections!
I needed to find a high-density and robust connector to interface the external arcade controllers to the Control Block. The CB provides 2 channels of 16 switches - requiring 17 pins (16 switches and a ground). The best compromise I found was to use a 15 pin D-SUB connector, familiar to most of us as the standard VGA connector. That provides 14 switches for each controller (14 switch and 1 ground pin). Theoretically, I could use the shield of the connector as a 15th connector, but that's not good practice.
The nice thing here is that the connectors will fit perfectly in the holes for the 2 Atari joystick ports. Those are 9 pin D-SUB connectors, the same physical size as the 15 pin ones. It will also allow some continuity with the original Atari 600XL usage - that the controllers are properly labeled (unlike the situation on the backside).
I found a nice bundle of connector wires in the form of an old PATA cable. I believe there are 40 discrete wires in this bundle. Now on to solder 30 connections!
Wednesday, December 23, 2015
Keyboard Interface Update
Friday, December 18, 2015
Internal audio amplifier and speakers
Found a cheap ($5) stereo audio amplifier on eBay, with the right size speakers and 5V input. Disassembled and installed into the 600XL. Will put a jack eventually on the back, so that a short jumper can run from the output of the Pi to the amplifier (rather than running the input out the back as it is now. Also, the 5VDC input is temporarily off the GPIO header, until the Control Block arrives. Power will then come off the Control Block master.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Tuesday, December 15, 2015
Teensy Placement, Initial Power-Up, and the Control Block
The PC project board and headers arrived today, so I'm playing with placement of the interface circuit. Probably going to attach it to the back of the keyboard, as there is a nice flat metal surface to which to attach double-sided tape. The limiter is the existing plastic Atari keyboard header. It's 32 years old, so I don't want to put a lot of stress on it - which precludes mounting the circuit in the bottom half of the case.
Oh, and I connected the Pi through the HDMI-VGA interface and powered it up yesterday. Works great so far. I discovered the 8GB SD card is listed as questionable in compatibility (though it worked OK), so I decided to replace it with a 32GB class 10 Samsung EVO card... it was only $11. That way, we can load every last bit of whatever we want on it.
Also put in a pre-order for the RetroPie Control Block ($45 with shipping). That will mean adding 1 additional hole on the back for the mini-USB port. This is the power port that must be used, as the Control Block has soft-power functionality that will feed the Pi. It also allows adding a power switch and status LED. I will use the LED on the Atari keyboard for that. Will try the existing lame red LED, which I verified is working.
Oh, and I connected the Pi through the HDMI-VGA interface and powered it up yesterday. Works great so far. I discovered the 8GB SD card is listed as questionable in compatibility (though it worked OK), so I decided to replace it with a 32GB class 10 Samsung EVO card... it was only $11. That way, we can load every last bit of whatever we want on it.
Also put in a pre-order for the RetroPie Control Block ($45 with shipping). That will mean adding 1 additional hole on the back for the mini-USB port. This is the power port that must be used, as the Control Block has soft-power functionality that will feed the Pi. It also allows adding a power switch and status LED. I will use the LED on the Atari keyboard for that. Will try the existing lame red LED, which I verified is working.
Monday, December 14, 2015
Best RetroPie initial setup how-to
There are several good how-tos floating around concerning setting up the Raspberry Pi for RetroPie. This is the best one, IMO.
Status update on the Control Block
The RetroPie Control Block is available for pre-order. Great! While I'm awaiting its arrival, I will focus on the keyboard interface sub-project.
Friday, December 11, 2015
Hooking up the external ports
With the Raspberry Pi and ports all being well-epoxied in place, it was time to connect the extension cables for the USB and Ethernet ports.
The Teensy 2.0 is also plugged into the external port that will serve as the keyboard USB out. The Teensy will have some headers soldered onto it and these will in turn be soldered to another project board, for interfacing with the Atari keyboard connector.
Thursday, December 10, 2015
Ethernet back panel port
The Ethernet extension cable also arrived yesterday, so I installed that where the power switch used to be. Same deal: cut off one of the mounting flanges, widened part of the hole, and expoxied it in place. Just have the USB port for the Teensy keyboard conversion device and that will be it for the initial spate of connectors!
Seating the Raspberry Pi
The nylon standoffs arrived yesterday, so I installed the Raspberry Pi today. I found a pack of 100 M2.5 12mm standoffs for $10 on Amazon with Prime shipping. I used 2 of the 12mm standoffs as-is for the rear legs and cut about 5mm off of each of the front 2. I used the same 2 part epoxy gel I used to mount the USB ports. Easy peasy. The standoffs are great because they have both a male and female side, so you can use another standoff as a nut.
Tuesday, December 8, 2015
Arcade Systems, Game Consoles, and Home Computers in RetroPie
Here's a cool summary of the systems covered by RetroPie, in chronological order!
Arcade Systems, Game Consoles, and Home Computers in RetroPie
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